Munich Restaurants

The prosperity that has come with the high tech and service industries has swollen expense accounts and raised awareness of fine eating, particularly nouvelle cuisine. There are still the traditional Bavarian restaurants with their wurst, sauerkraut, pig's feet, and plenty of beer, but a number of other restaurants, such as Aubergine, Tantris, and Watterspiel have won the critics' stars, including the coveted Michelin. A selection of the best:

Deluxe

Aubergine, Maximilianstrasse 5. Tel.: 598171. This is top of the scale nouvelle cuisine. Owner chef Eckart Witzigmann runs what is the most sophisticated restaurant in the city. One of two Munich restaurants with the coveted Michelin three stars. The decor is rather modern, but the service is impeccable. Specialties: turbot in champagne, breast of pigeon with artichoke and truffle salad. Reservations are imperative in this and other Munich gastronomic temples.

Boettner's, Theatinerstrasse 2. Tel.: 221210. The dark paneling and pleasant bar are what you might expect in the oldest of Munich's top restaurants Boettner's has been around since the beginning of the century, It's a haven with seafood, notably lobster and sole, predominating. Again, it is essential to reserve.

Dallmayr, Dienerstrasse 14. Tel.: 2135100. Downstairs is West Germany's most famous food store, often likened to Paris' Fauchon or Londons Fortnum and Mason. Upstairs a fine restaurant.

Le Gourmet im Weinhaus Schwamwalder, Hartmann Strasse 8. Tel.: 2120958. Gastronomic critics have heaped praise on this restaurant, which serves creative, contemporary cuisine in an intimate and elegant atmosphere in the city center. Member of the Relais & Chateaux chain. Specialties: oxtail in champagne sauce, zucchini and truffle salad.

Kaferschanke, Schumannstrasse 1. Tel.: 41681. Like Dallmayr, this culinary landmark is a high class charcuterie on the ground floor, while upstairs are connecting rooms in rustic decor with fine antiques. Fish flown in daily from the French Riviera. Specialty: grilled prawns in sweet sour sauce.

Sabitzer's, Reitmorstrasse, 21. Tel.: 298584. Attractive nineteenthcentury dining room, but more nouvelle cuisine of the highest order (although with more local influences). Try the venison, lamb, or salmon dishes. Important to reserve.

Tantris, Johann Fichter Strasse 7. Tel.: 362061. Situated in the "artistic" quarter of Schwabing, Tantris is, in the opinion of many, Munich's finest restaurant. Nouvelle cuisine is served with flair. The modern decor leaves something to be desired, but not the food, notably the pigeon breast, venison, caviar terrine. This is Munich's other three star restaurant.

Walterspiel, Maximilianstrasse 16. Tel.: 230390. Softly lit, extremely comfortable banquettes, crisp tablecloths, beautiful china. The food is good, too. The Walterspiel also has Germany's finest wine list national whites as well as French and the others.

First Class

Austernkeller. Stollbergstrasse 11. Tel.: 298787. Cellar restaurant with vaulted ceilings and baroque fittings. Noted for austern (oysters) and many other forms of shellfish.

Bouillabaisse, Falkenturmstrasse 10. Tel.: 297909. Beams and chandeliers give this restaurant a distinctive air, but the real distinction (and rarity) is to find the famous French fish stew in Bavaria. A person from Marseilles would feel at home.

Gratzer's Lobby, Beethovenplatz 2 3. Tel.: 531154. A library setting, wood fires, very British in many ways. The locals use it for cocktails. Good for intimate discussions.

Preysing Keller, Innere Wienerstrasse 6. Tel.: 481015. The sixteenthcentury cellar has been ruined by restoration, but the seven course meal is highly rated. Excellent wine list.

Der Kasladen von Tolz. Westeriederstrasse 16. Tel.: 226322. Cheese dishes and wine at this charming chalet style restaurant. Lunch, but not dinner.

Goldene Stadt, Oeranger 44. Tel.: 264382. This is the place for Bohemian cooking Vom next door Czechoslovakia. Roast duck, goose, and dumplings.